crochetpinkpumpkin
Yeaaaah !!! The bloom bag free crochet pattern and tutorial are finally out ! So excited to share it with you because I’m literally obsessed with that bag !
The pattern is easy is you are a crochet beginner because it only has few stitches to know : single crochet, chain stitch, turning chain stitch, slip stitch, work in back/front loop only and decrease. And, basic sewing skills are necessary to sew the handle to the bag.
Table of Contents
Crochet pattern pdf file ( ad free )
For more convenience and to support my blog you can choose to purchase the printable PDF file of bag crochet pattern for beginner ( AD FREE and more detailed PICTURES ) on my Etsy and Ribblr shop, by clicking here ( for Etsy ) and here ( for Ribblr ).
So, if you choose that option, huge, huge THANK YOU for your support, I can keep making my crochet patterns thanks to you 🙂
But, you can also decide to follow the bag free crochet pattern directly on my blog, so let’s get started !
Some notes before starting
- Read the free bag crochet pattern completely before you start and don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or feedbacks, I will be happy to answer them ( contact me : here )
- For a result similar to the original bag, it is important to read the crochet pattern at each step so as not to skip instructions given for a specific row. The model requires careful counting of rows and stitches.
- Also, don’t hesitate to contact me here if you notice any mistake in the tutorial, thank you
- The numbers placed in parentheses correspond to the number of stitches to have when finishing the row. This allows you to know if it was done correctly. If you have more than the number indicated, it means that you have added stitches. Conversely, if you lack it, you have forgotten it.
- The letters (a,b,c…) at the end of sentences correspond to the pictures.
- When it is indicated “classic finish “, it means: Cut the thread and pass it through the loop to make a knot.
- When it is indicated ‘’ invisible finish‘’, it means : Cut the thread, pass it through the loop to make a knot and then, create a ‘’ fake stitch ‘’ to make it invisible. ( please refer to this video : here )
Dimensions in inches ( length x width x height including the handles )
- The visible part of the bag’s handle measures approximately 11 inches, but you can decide to make the braid longer. Also, the size of your bag can differ according to the tightness of your stitches.
- Note that the structure of bag 1 and 3 is softer and stays less in place than bag 2 due a difference of yarn.
- The use of different supplies from that indicated may vary the final rendering. You don’t have to use the same brand of yarn but the weight category and hook size have to be the same for a similar result ( in term of proportion ).
Difficulty, stitches and techniques used
Level of difficulty : Easy ( also, a tutorial comes with the pattern )
Stitches and techniques : single crochet, chain stitch, turning chain stitch, slip stitch, work in back/front loop only and decrease. Basic sewing skills are necessary to sew the handle to the bag..
For more details about the different crochet stitches and techniques, watch my YouTube videos : here
If you are a crochet beginner with chenille yarn and want to make this bag, I suggest you to watch my video ‘’ start crocheting chenille yarn ‘’ : here
List of supplies
The use of different supplies from that indicated may vary the final rendering.
- Crochet hook : 12 mm from this set : here
- Yarns As long as the weight category is respected, you can pick the skeins of the brand and color that you prefer ( the result will be similar in term of proportions ).
| Bag | Brand and Name | Color | Number of skeins needed | Weight & length of 1 skein | Weight category |
| 1* | Premier, Bloom Chenille, 100 % polyester | Cherry Blossom (2099-02) | 2 | 3.5 oz / 87 yds (80 m) | 6 |
| 1* | I love this yarn ( Hobby Lobby ), Super soft, super saving, 100% acrylic. | White | 1** | 7 oz / 355 yds (325 m) | 4 |
| 2* | Loops & threads (Michael’s), Sweet Snuggles Lite, 100% polyester from here | Baby Green (SK02) | 1 | 9 oz / 218 yds ( 200 m) | 6 |
| 2* | Caron, Simply Soft, 100% acrylic | 9739 Soft Green | 1** | 6 oz / 315 yds (288 m) | 4 |
| 3* | Premier, Bloom Chenille,100% polyester | Geranium (2099-10) | 2 | 3.5 oz / 87 yds (80 m) | 6 |
| 3* | I love this yarn ( Hobby Lobby ), Super soft, super saving, 100% acrylic. | Orchid (290) | 1** | 7 oz / 355 yds (325 m) | 4 |
** You will need less than one ball.
- Yarn for the handle ( arm knitting type of yarn ), for bag 1 : here, for bags 2 : here and for bag 3 : here. You will need approximately 48 inches for a 11 inches braided handle. You can make between 9 to 10 handles with the 250 g skein from Walmart and 8 handles with the 250 g skein from Amazon.
- Stitch markers, from this set : here
- Lap counter : here
- Sewing needle and thin sewing thread ( same color as the handle ).
- Sewing clips ( mine come from the Dollar Tree, you can use clothespins as well )
- Optional : Craft glue from Elmer’s : here.
( More information about supplies on my blog post ‘’ Crochet supplies list for beginner ‘’ )
YouTube tutorial
Free crochet bag pattern – Beginner friendly
© This document is the property of crochetpinkpumpkin. Do not sell, copy or distribute the pattern itself.
You may sell finished products made with this free crochet bag pattern as long as crochetpinkpumpkin is credited as the designer.
Abbreviations
Ro : row
Ch : chain stitch
Sc: single crochet
Sl: slip stitch
Inc: increase
Dec: decrease
BLO : back loop only
Front & Gusset of the bag
Hook 7 mm
( Don’t forget to use both ( acrylic & polyester ) indicated yarns at the same time )
I will be using stitch markers to make the stitches more visible and the pattern more clear, you don’t have to do the same. However if you are beginner, it might help a lot to use the stitch markers 🙂
For this pattern, always skip the turning chain once you start a new row. We will only use it to turn our work and it does not count in the total of stitches to have at the end of the row.
Let’s begin with the front & gusset !
R0 : 29 ch (29) + 1 turning ch (a)
Start crocheting in the 2nd chain from the hook
R1 : 1 sc in each stitch (29) + 1 turning ch, turn your work (b)
R2 > R15 : Same as R1 ( 14 rows )
This part of the pattern requires a lot of decreases. It is important not to tighten the stitches too much during the decreases in order to make the work easier. ( More details at 16 min 31 s in the YouTube tutorial : here )
R16 : 10 sc (10) (a)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction
of the previous row (b)
R17 : 1 dec*, 8 sc (9) + 1 turning ch
R18 : 7 sc, 1 dec (8)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction
of the previous row
R19 : 1 dec, 6 sc (7) + 1 turning ch
R20 : 5 sc, 1 dec (6)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R21 : 1 dec, 4 sc (5) + 1 turning ch
R22 : 3 sc, 1 dec (4)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R23 : 1 dec, 2 sc (3) + 1 turning ch
R24 : 1 sc, 1 dec (2)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R25 : 1 dec (1)
Classic finish
*I recommend to insert a stitch marker on the following decreases in order to make them more visible.
Go back to the other end of R15, insert your hook and threads in
the first single crochet. Pass them through and make a ch (a).
R16b : 10 sc (10) ( the first sc is made in the same stitch as the ch )
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction
of the previous row
R17b : 1 dec, 8 sc (9) + 1 turning ch
R18b : 7 sc, 1 dec (8)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R19b : 1 dec, 6 sc (7) + 1 turning ch
R20b : 5 sc, 1 dec (6)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R21b : 1 dec, 4 sc (5) + 1 turning ch
R22b : 3 sc, 1 dec (4)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R23b : 1 dec, 2 sc (3) + 1 turning ch
R24b : 1 sc, 1 dec (2)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R25b : 1 dec (1) (b).
Insert a stitch marker to block the threads but do not cut them.
Fold the 2 corners as shown in the picture and block them with sewing pins (a)
R26 : Make single crochets along the edges following the arrows (b) ( insert a stitch marker on the first sc ). With the single crochets, try to cover the loose ends to hide them.
When you arrive at these two corners, make 2 sc in the same stitch (c).
Back to the first single crochet, do not cut the thread and place a stitch marker to block the yarn.
You will see that it created a ‘’ frame’’ the bag is rounded at the bottom.
Place it under heavy books for a few hours to make it flatter . You can also iron it, if you have the steam function. ALWAYS place a thick towel between the iron and crochet piece and only iron it for a few seconds. If not, it could burn or melt your creation.
Optional : After flattening your piece, you can add some craft glue under the corners to make sure that they stay closed (a).
Once this is done, you can go back to your stitch marker. And, now we will crochet the stitches on the edge ( made during R26 ), but only the ones that surround the semi circle ( shown in purple in the picture (c) )*. On my bag, it’s 67 stitches but it’s not an exact number, on yours, it can be a little more or less than 67.
You start by :
R27 : BLO, 1 sc in each stitch (67) (d)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R28 : 1 sc in each stitch (67)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R29 > R31 : Same as R28 ( 3 rows )
Invisible finish.
*More details at 38 min 57 s in the YouTube tutorial : here
Back of the bag
This part’s pattern is the same one as the front pattern without the
gusset.
Let’s begin !
R0 : 29 ch + 1 turning ch
Start crocheting in the 2nd chain from the hook
R1 : 1 sc in each stitch (29) + 1 turning ch, turn your work
R2 > R15 : Same as R1 ( 14 rows )
This part of the pattern requires a lot of decreases. It is important not to tighten the stitches too much during the decreases in order to make the work easier. ( More details at 16 min 31 s in the YouTube tutorial : here )
R16 : 10 sc (10)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction
of the previous row
R17 : 1 dec*, 8 sc (9) + 1 turning ch
R18 : 7 sc, 1 dec (8) (d)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction
of the previous row
R19 : 1 dec, 6 sc (7) + 1 turning ch
R20 : 5 sc, 1 dec (6)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R21 : 1 dec, 4 sc (5) + 1 turning ch
R22 : 3 sc, 1 dec (4)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R23 : 1 dec, 2 sc (3) + 1 turning ch
R24 : 1 sc, 1 dec (2)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R25 : 1 dec (1)
Classic finish
*I recommend to insert a stitch marker on the following decreases in order to make them more visible
Go back to the other end of R15, insert your hook and threads in the first single crochet.
Pass them through and make a ch.
R16b : 10 sc (10) ( the first sc is made in the same stitch as the ch )
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R17b : 1 dec, 8 sc (9) + 1 turning ch
R18b : 7 sc, 1 dec (8)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R19b : 1 dec, 6 sc (7) + 1 turning ch
R20b : 5 sc, 1 dec (6)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R21b : 1 dec, 4 sc (5) + 1 turning ch
R22b : 3 sc, 1 dec (4)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R23b : 1 dec, 2 sc (3) + 1 turning ch
R24b : 1 sc, 1 dec (2)
No turning chain, simply turn your work, the hook is in the direction of the previous row
R25b : 1 dec (1) .
Insert a stitch marker to block the threads but do not cut them.
Fold the 2 corners as shown in the picture and block them with sewing pins (a).
R26 : Make single crochets along the edges following the arrows (b) ( insert a stitch marker on the first sc ). With the single crochets, try to cover the loose ends to hide them.
When you arrive at these two corners (c), make 2 sc in the same stitch.
Back to the first single crochet, invisible finish.
You will see that it created a ‘’ frame’’ and the bag is rounded at the bottom.
Place it under heavy books for a few hours to make it flatter. You can also iron it, if you have the steam function. ALWAYS place a thick towel between the iron and crochet piece and only iron it for a few seconds. If not, it could burn or melt your creation.
Optional : After flattening your piece, you can add some craft glue under the corners to make sure that they stay closed.
Handle
( All the details at 46 min 12 s in the YouTube tutorial : here )
The visible part of the bag’s handle measures around 11 inches, but you can decide to make it longer by braiding longer strands of yarn.
- Cut 3 strands of ‘’arm knitting‘’ yarn ( approx. 16 inches each )
- Place the pins 1 inch from the ends to block them together.
- Drag the fabric part towards the pins to reveal the stuffing (a).
- Cut off the excess stuffing. Be careful not to cut the fabric (b).
- Sew a line where there is no more stuffing to close and to join the strands together (c).
- Then, braid the strands.
- Close the braid 1 inch form the end with pins. And do the exact same thing as you did for the other end ( cutting the stuffing, sewing .. ) (d).
Assembly
Place the handle against the inside part of the gusset (a,b) and sew it to the bag (c).
Then, place the back of the bag parallel to the gusset (d). Using a darning needle and the acrylic yarn, sew the sc of R31 from the gusset part to the sc of R26 from the back part.
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Voilà ! Ready to go to amazing adventures with your new bag 😊 !
I hope that you enjoyed this free bag crochet pattern for beginner !
Share your creation with me on Instagram or Facebook
by tagging @crochetpinkpumpkin
or by using #pinkpumpkinpattern
Also, don’t hesitate to contact me here or paquin.mathilde@gmail.com if you notice any mistake in the bag crochet pattern, thank you :). You are also more than welcome to ask me any questions or give feedbacks as well.
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